You start with a short wait and then you let your dog go chase a lure that you drag low across the ground in wide arcs. Each chase is about 15 to 30 seconds, your dog gets to catch it every 3 or 4 rounds, and you trade for a drop-it before you go again. After about 10 minutes you stop on purpose and finish with a calm down. This is the basic loop I’d start anybody with. If you’re brand new to it, start with what a flirt pole is.
By Christopher Lee Moran, working dog trainer, around 400 client dogs · Updated October 2026
Step 1 in real life: the dog holds a down and stays put. Once this is solid the chase becomes the reward for holding it together.
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The chase. Keep it low and fast and wide, then let them catch it and trade for the drop-it.
For most adult dogs I’d aim for about 8 to 15 minutes most days. Small dogs and seniors usually end up on the short end of that. Some high-drive dogs do better with two short sessions instead of one long one. Rest days are fine, and doing it most days is better than going long once in a while.
The wait starts at three seconds. If your dog is ready you can stretch it over the next few weeks to 10 seconds, then 20, then 30, but that’s just a direction to head, it’s not a rule. Think about what’s going on there. A dog holding a wait with a lure sitting right in front of its nose is practicing the same self-control you want at the door and on walks and when people come over.
Use a lighter pole like the Standard. Slow the lure down some and keep sessions around 8 to 10 minutes.
These dogs grip hard. I’d use the Rugged XL, keep your turns wide and work the drop-it more than you normally would. More in the power breed guide.
These dogs wind up fast, so build the wait before you build speed and take more breaks than you think you need. Reach matters with them too, cause they’re quick and they’ll cut inside the lure if you let them. More in the herding dog guide.
Puppies start at 6 months at the earliest. Until your vet says harder play is okay, that means 3 to 5 easy minutes with the lure low and plenty of wins. Seniors and dogs with joint problems need your vet’s okay first, and then you keep everything slow and wide.
Stop the session if your dog is panting a lot harder than normal, favoring a leg, snapping at the air instead of the lure, or not listening to cues it knows. Next time go shorter and slower.
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Ask for a short wait, then let your dog chase a lure you drag low in wide arcs. Let them catch it every 3 or 4 rounds, trade it for a drop-it and go again. After about 10 minutes wrap it up with an all-done word and a calm down.
About 8 to 15 minutes for most adult dogs, and less for small dogs, seniors and young dogs. Quit while your dog still wants more, don’t wait till they’re wiped out.
Most days for most dogs, and take rest days whenever you want. I’d rather see you keep a steady routine than do one big long session.
Not before 6 months, and only as an easy intro. Keep sessions around 3 to 5 minutes with the lure low. No hard sprints and no sharp turns till your vet says the growth plates are closed, and with big breeds that can take longer.
Just chasing with no structure can wind a dog up. A session built around waits and catches and drop-its with a clear ending is a different thing. If your dog gets more frantic as it goes, make it shorter and slow the lure down. If you’ve got a dog with aggression, work with a qualified trainer.
Try it for 30 days. If it isn’t a fit for your dog, email me for a refund, and you cover return shipping unless the pole failed. I’m a one-man company and I want you happy with it, so I’ll work with you.
Get the Pro Kit, $129.95Smaller dog? See the Standard, $55.95
Based on my own experience training dogs. Not veterinary advice. Exercise disclaimer.