A lot of the smart, high-drive breeds get plenty of exercise and almost nothing to figure out. My flirt pole training guide is about fixing that with a pole, and if you want to see everything else you can try first, my full enrichment rundown for high-energy dogs has the rest.
He figured it out, ate the food and then just stared at you like, that’s it? A puzzle only has the one answer, so once a sharp dog figures it out it’s basically furniture to him.
If you only tire out the body you can end up with a dog that’s in better shape and still frustrated. His legs are getting a workout but his brain isn’t doing anything, and a lot of times that’s the part chewing on your baseboards.
Herding the kids, barking at nothing, digging into the couch. A lot of these breeds were made to work and make decisions all day, so if you don’t give him something to do he’s gonna find his own job, and you probably won’t like it.
Drag the lure at ground level. You’ll see his eyes lock on and now he’s paying attention, cause watching something move and keeping up with it is what a lot of these breeds were made for.
Change speed and direction. He has to guess where it’s going next and go for it, then change course in the middle of a sprint when it breaks the other way. That’s where the thinking is.
Let them catch and win. Catching it finishes the hunt and that’s what tells him the job’s done, so if he never gets to catch it he never really gets to turn it off.
Ten minutes, then rest. In one short session he had to track it, guess where it was going and hold himself back when you asked, and he got his running in too.
Food puzzles are fine for warming up, but a puzzle has one answer and one payout and then it’s over. A lure that moves like prey is different every time, and the AKC’s advice on channeling prey drive points toward chase games with some structure. The ASPCA says something similar, that dogs need to engage in innate behaviors like playing, chasing, smelling, chewing and scavenging.
| Tool | Decisions per minute | Satisfaction after | Physical work |
|---|---|---|---|
| Puzzle feeder | A handful, then the food runs out | Twenty minutes, maybe | None |
| Snuffle mat | Low: sniff, find, repeat | Under an hour | None |
| Frozen Kong | One: lick or quit | Until it’s empty | Jaw only |
| Whimsy Stick | Constant: track, predict, cut, adjust | Most of the day once the hunt closes | Full-body sprint work |
“This thing is a game changer. He’s a border collie, so lots of energy. He loves this thing, and it wears him out. The look on his face every time we bring it out is pure happiness.”
“This thing is a lifesaver. We have an extremely active working dog mix 6 month old puppy and 5 minutes of this tires him out. Highly recommend.”
I’m Chris, a working dog trainer. It’s been about ten years and around 400 client dogs, and no, I don’t have certifications or vet credentials. I made the Whimsy Stick after trying a bunch of flirt poles that were too short, too bulky, too heavy or had a violent bungee cord.
A lot of border collies and malinois get plenty of exercise, their owners run them every day. What they don’t get is something to think about. There are a couple of ways to satisfy a dog like that, like exploration and play, but the biggest one is hunting.
Give him ten minutes of tracking and guessing and catching, and a lot of times the pacing at night gets a lot better. There’s more about me and how I train on the about page.
Under 30 lbs, get the Standard. If he’s 30 lbs and up or he chews through everything no matter his size, get the Rugged XL.
What you read here reflects my own experience training dogs. Not veterinary or behavioral medical advice. See the full exercise disclaimer →
Do one session a day for a month. If your dog isn’t calmer and easier to live with, email me and I’ll refund you. The only thing on you is return shipping, unless the pole failed. I’m a one-man company and I want you happy with it, so I’ll work with you.
I’d give him something that moves instead of something that just sits there. With a flirt pole he has to keep tracking it and guessing and changing direction in the middle of a sprint, and a puzzle feeder only asks for one answer and then it’s done, so always finish with a catch so he gets the win.
They help some, but mostly as a warm-up. A food puzzle only has one answer, so a sharp dog figures it out quick and the thinking stops once the food’s gone, and that’s why I’d use them for breakfast and then give him something that moves.
Honestly working for food isn’t really what he was bred for. Herding and working breeds want to track something moving and get control of it, and a toy that sits still just can’t do that. If he’s restless after a puzzle, a lot of times it’s cause he never got to chase anything, let alone catch it.
Border collies, aussies, malinois, heelers, German shepherds and a lot of the working mixes tend to need it the most. Really it’s any dog that was bred to make decisions all day, and plenty of regular mutts have it too, so if he’s still pacing after exercise that’s usually your sign.
There’s no real conversion and I’m not gonna make one up. A short focused session of tracking and chasing and catching can settle a smart dog better than a long leash walk, but every dog’s different, so watch yours and he’ll show you.
Yeah you can, you only need about an 8-foot circle and not a whole field. A living room or a garage is fine, and going slower with tight figure-8s still gives him plenty to think about, just make sure the floor isn’t slippery and keep it shorter inside.
Growth plates are what you’re worried about with puppies, so keep it short and low and slow, with no hard cuts. The AKC’s guidance on puppy exercise covers the physical side pretty well. And if you’re not sure, I’d ask your vet before you add any sprinting.
The same dog that figures out every toy you buy is the one that’ll lock onto a moving lure and not let go. Give him something to figure out and see what your evenings look like.